I just spent two fairly productive days at Sparta including an overnight since a bit of travel is now involved. I say “fairly” because, typical of any DIY project, too many trips to the hardware store were required with time spent fishing through nuts, bolts, washers, etc. and wandering the aisles of Home Depot looking for help.
Before I get started on the tank installation I wanted to share this curiousity. Pictured below is a section of wood stripping which ran the width of the trailer in the vicinity of the kitchen and supported the subfloor on a cross-beam. Notice it is burned. Now I am not a forensic fire investigator so I can only speculate – kitchen grease fire that ran down behind the stove?…misplaced cigarette?…who knows. But I am glad Sparta avoided the ignomious fate of so many trailers – either burning down or getting demolished in a tornado.
So, as I mentioned last blog, the fresh water tanks arrived and the first order of business was to test them. Since my Flow Dynamics is a bit rusty, I decided to actually confirm that my plan to link them actually works.
I dragged them to the nearest water faucet 100 yards away, connected them with fresh water vynyl hoses and proceeded to watch as I filled the left tank. Because the fill inlet is 1/2 inch and the shared water line inlets are 3/8″, the first tank filled more quickly than the flow into tanks 2 & 3 could accomodate, resulting in overflow from the tank #1 air vent. This would not be a good thing during actual usage so I determined that I needed to reduce the faucet flow into the first tank and allow the others to catch up. Note to self: I may need to install a flow regulator to ensure that I don’t exceed the tanks’ ability to equalize and have water exiting the air vents. Having successfully tested my theory, I turned my attention to the installation. Part two of this missive to be continued.