A comment about “Contents under pressure”, my previous post. Technically, I misspoke. My water system is not pressurized. It is all gravity fed and vented, which is why I can get away with plastic tanks, fittings, hoses and PVC connections. Unlike your home water where the H2O is “pushed” through by virtue of the tremendously high-pressure behind your municipal water system (anyone witnessing a ruptured line can attest), my water will just sit there in no hurry to go anywhere until my Shurflow pump is activated and “pulls” the water from my reservoir on its way to an open spigot. As long as my system is self-contained and I do not plug in to “shore” water, my system will not be taxed too heavily.
Now, I am sure you are all tired of the water/floor discussion and ready to move on to electrical. I know I am. But one last thing. Although I do not recommend proceeding on a trailer project as slowly as I have, there has proven to be one big advantage of moving so deliberately – oversights can be corrected, for example, before they become entombed under a finished and buttoned up floor. As I lay in bag the other night I got to thinking about Sparta’s proposed destination – Quincy, California. It gets fairly cold there. In fact, I Googled it and learned that 9 months out of the year at least one night’s temperature will dip below 30 degrees F. Brrrr. Since my 63 gallons of onboard water will rest below the subfloor and is not particularly well insulated, it could be subject to freezing. So I ordered three thermostat-controlled self-adhesive heaters, one for each tank. Because my tanks were still accessible I lifted them up (these heaters have to be on the bottom where the water rests), and affixed a heater to each, running the 12 volt wire up through the floor. These heaters are pretty cool. They automatically turn on at 45 degrees and below and are idle otherwise. Although they draw over 4 amps each, it will be worth the expenditure of power to ensure running water year-round. Pictures will tell the story.